Hayward’s guide: the unspoilt pleasures of rural Cavan by Jonathan Smyth

In mid 20th Century Ireland, Richard Hayward was a pivotal cultural figure, a man with a love for Ulster; his writings record the special attractions of each County in the province. His description of Cavan is particularly evocative.

    For many people, vintage tour guide publications and travel documentaries hold a certain charm. These curiosities can range from the old Shell Guides of Ireland, Dick Warner’s travels along the Shannon, to John Betjeman’s poetically narrated films of the 1960’s and ’70’s. Recently, I was unaware of another scribe in the tour guide genre, a writer whose description of Cavan was beautiful, both in tone and turn of phrase. In the book, Ireland for the Irish, Richard Hayward contributed a chapter, titled ‘The Province of Ulster’, in which he described Cavan as ‘an inland County, larger than neighbouring Monaghan but with similar charms in lake, mountain, wood and valley, and reflecting in her people, life and literature a combination of the ancient Celtic influence of the west and that of the Jacobean planters who, to their credit, fell in love with their adopted country and did her much honour. So there are rich legacies, not only from the early, purely Celtic writers and bards,such as Fargail Dalean, St. Killian and Fiachra MacBrady, but from distinguished Anglo-Irish writers like the Brookes and the Sheridans, to whom the illustrious Richard Brinsley Sheridan was kin. Edgar Allan Poe, inventor of the tale of horror, came from Cavan stock.’

Who was Hayward? 

    Hayward’s distinctive presence and unique voice made him one of the most popular singers and film actors of his generation. In his writing he explored aspects of Irish cultural history; while  also being an accomplished broadcaster and folklorist. He appeared in numerous films including, the Titanic movie, A Night to Remember. As a talented character actor, he starred in some of the first black-and-white ‘talkies’ made in Ireland, including his most successful film, The Luck of the Irish (1935). 

    Born in 1892, at Southport, Lancashire, his family arrived in Ireland when he was a baby. Hayward grew up in Larne, Co. Antrim, and later lived in Belfast. From the late 1930’s,  he devoted his days to promoting Ireland, driving through the country-side, while gathering material for his books. Between 1938 and 1964, Hayward wrote eleven travel books on Ireland, many with Cavan references. His guides are filled with cultural history, topography, architecture, archaeology, legends and folklore. In his two Ulster books, Cavan was featured prominently, with a chapter in each. His travels took him to many different parts of the County; as well as neighbouring Co. Monaghan.

Traversing Cavan 

    His first travel book, In Praise of Ulster, (1938), includes a general landscape sketch, ‘In the Co. Cavan’, drawn by the distinguished landscape artist James Humbert Craig. For his second Ulster book, Ulster and the city of Belfast (1950), the Belfast artist Raymond Piper provided the drawings. Both Hayward and Piper quartered in all parts of Cavan, from Swanlinbar and Kilmore to Cootehill’s ‘hospitable public houses’ and over to Kilgolagh where they attended the annual horse fair. Hayward enjoyed drinking in the landscape, reflecting on the layers of history and grasping the shape and beauty of Cavan’s countryside, noting: ‘The view from the summit of Slieve Anieran or of Cuilcagh, is well worth all the labour of an easy-going climb, and from the lofty perch you will look down on the ancient Kingdom of Glan. These lands were the last part of Cavan upon which the invading English set their feet.’ 

    In his Ulster book, from 1950, Hayward mentions The Anglo-Celt: ‘As a kind of commentary on the racial dichotomy of the County Cavan’, he then teasingly adds , ‘it is significant that the only newspaper printed in the county is the weekly Anglo-Celt.  The only bad thing I know about that paper is the execrable local pronunciation of the word Celt with a soft C. It does violence to my ear every time a Cavan man uses such an un-Irish sound.’ 

Shannon Pot

    Cavan was also featured in two of Hayward’s other travel books. For his journey down the Shannon in 1939, he started out from its Cavan source, the Shannon Pot,  recording the experience in his book, Where the River Shannon Flows (1940). In his preface to the book Hayward wrote: ‘Our objective was three fold: to make a travel picture of the River Shannon from its source to its mouth; to write a book of similar scope; and to enjoy ourselves. We enjoyed ourselves so much that the other two parts for mission were accomplished almost without conscious effort.’ He also made a documentary film of this journey which opens with a wide pan across the Fermanagh-Cavan countryside in which he refers to Cuilcagh and Benaughlin mountains.

Cavan Drama

    Hayward was very encouraging of drama groups throughout Ireland. In 1947, as part of the Cavan Drama Festival, he held a course of weekend lectures on amateur stagecraft in the Temperance Hall, Cavan town. During the festival, he gave lectures on acting, including production, make-up and lighting technique. Aside from acting, Hayward was a gifted singer. From the age of seven, Hayward had developed an interest in performing Irish ballads. It had been the family-employed maid from Ballybay, Co. Monaghan, who had taught him his first songs. Later, as a singer, he appeared on both the BBC and Radio Éireann.        Today, Richard Hayward’s books provide a remarkable record of  an Ireland, as it was going through dramatic social and political change, prior to the modern era. Romancing Ireland, Richard Hayward, 1892-1964 by Paul Clements, was recently published and comes highly recommended. This book is available through Crannóg bookshop or direct from Lilliput Press. Hayward’s Ulster and the City of Belfast, is currently being re-printed through Clachan Publishing.


Richard Hayward, film star and travel writer who came to Cavan.

Raymond Piper’s illustration of the Kilgologh Horse-fair, Co. Cavan for Hayward’s book, Ulster and the city of Belfast.
Richard Hayward Cavan Drama 1947